1. I see the particular works of 'Burka' and 'Afterwords' as more art that fashion. Fashion is a form of design, and design is essentially applied art to improve or correct an issue. In short, design is art with some sense of function. Both of these works contain elements of design, but lack any real function. They learn harder towards art because of this.
Fashion, in my opinion, is hard to describe as the boundaries are constantly being pushed. However, it is essentially a new take on a garment of accessory (or new invention of these things altogether), which makes it different from the standard garment. This can be achieved through new colors, materials, cuts, etc.
2. We don't know for sure exactly how much influence the clients had on Chalayan's work, so I don't think we can know entirely how much of an impact this had on his work. The relationship between art and money is a delicate one. Many are quick to point to artists who collaborate with companies or make millions of dollars off their artworks as "sellouts". Many believe money takes away from the value of the art itself, the marketing pollutes the 'pure' and honest aura that artwork is supposed to emit. However, art draws many parallels to marketing. Art (in most cases) is the visual communication of an idea or concept - designed to influence your thinking or at least spark thought, while still remaining visually pleasing - as is any well run marketing campaign which uses billboards or installations.
Personally I think collaborating with companies is a great idea for artists - as long as they still have complete creative freedom to make art as they please - otherwise it becomes restricted in some way, and therefore more so design. A healthy collaboration can give a talented artist a base of personal income, as well as time and freedom to produce artwork how they see fit, and for a company they respect in the first place. It is a mutual bonus for all involved - the company gets an entirely unique form of marketing, the artist gets his freedom in the form of creative control and steady income, and the viewers get to visit and view the finished artwork.
When the collaboration is unhealthy, that's when restrictions come into play and the art is not pure anymore. This is when the line between art and commissioned design blurs.
3. 'Absent Presence' is a very clever and well produced piece of film that raises many questions surrounding ideas such as xenophobia, inequality and racial profiling. It was obviously highly influenced by the progress of science and it's impact on art, as can be seen in the use of the DNA testing and overall feel of the set and scenes. Tolerance, xenophobia and racial undertones are also highly visible, as this film is based on social interaction, the way we see others. At the end of the film, the 'washing' scene seems to be a symbolic washing away of prejudice and the freedom of an ideal that is very often portrayed in artworks - equality.
4. The use of others to physically construct the work should not take away from the quality or worth of the artwork in question, with some notable exceptions. Today, art is heavily influenced by design, and how design is manufactured and born has very little to do with how it is perceived when it is released for consumption. Apple has long been held in high prestige for it's products, and deservedly so - they are beautifully design and have a very unique and recognizable look to them, however, they are mass produced in places not often revered for quality and attention to detail. Taiwan and China come to mind.
The manufacturing process should only either a. not effect or b. add to the overall worth of the art/design/product, as long as quality is not compromised. This is manufacturing quality is evident high quality manufactured products such as high end Italian sports cars or certain designer clothes.
'Non-designed' painting, photography and some other mediums should always be produced by the artist themselves, as they are just as much a personal touch than a concept in itself.
The way I see it, if you can design or envision a beautiful piece design/artwork, that doesn't require a personal touch (ie. brushstroke) and you have someone readily available who can produce the work at a higher quality than you can, why not?
I like how you described the meaning of fashion in your own words, Fashion is really a hard one, like you said ' it is always being pushed', pushed to the some limits when fashion isnt really considered to be called fashion anymore. I also support the idea of artists collaborating with businesses, to boost and promote themselves, as well as their arts and designs. I personally think that this is a really good idea because the outcomes can be beneficial for both parties that have created work(s) together. So, personally I think that Chalayan produces great works and designs to help him gain more attention and to sell his designs in a positive way.
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